Mark Treacey takes you deep into Hungary: the beating heart of Europe.
I had been in the UK visiting my family and now I was going to Hungary for a few weeks. I honestly did not know what to expect from this Central European country.
I knew it was once part of the communist empire, I knew a little about its pre-communist history, I knew roughly where it was and that was about it. Budapest’s Ferihegy Airport is one of those few remaining airports where you walk off the plane, across the tarmac and into the terminal.
Budapest is a contradiction, one of those rare places that has not been overrun with tourists and yet still has a great tourist economy. Modern, exciting and fun and at the same time old-fashioned, fiercely independent and traditional. That is a lot of its charm.
I ran into just how ‘independent’ the Hungarian people have remained when I found myself at Keleti railway station. The trip from the airport to the station was fine. But now I found that hardly anyone spoke English. Even the girl at the information desk was having a few problems. I needed to get to Debrecen, about 200km away, was travelling by myself and did not know a single word of Hungarian, which, by the way, is just about one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn.
Kelati station itself is a rumbling, ancient, monster of a place. I fully expected to see steam trains chugging into the station. I queued up forever to get to the ticket desk, where the computer has yet to make an appearance, and tried to make myself understood. It is probably all my own fault, thanks to a strange assumption that everyone must speak English. No such luck. Eventually they directed me to the other side of the station where I could buy my ticket. Another queue, and a woman who just shook her head as soon as I opened my mouth. After a lengthy conversation that involved lots of pointing at guidebooks I was sent back to the original ticket office with a note that described where I wanted to go. All smiles this time, I finally got my ticket. Shame I had missed the train and had to wait two hours for the next one.
Hungary has been a European cultural centre since the 13th century. The Turkish occupied the country for 150 years and when they were kicked out Hungary became part of the great Austrian empire. Following World War One the country was divided and lost two thirds of its territory and a third of its population. Things got worse after the second global bun fight when the Soviets moved in. It wasn’t until 1989 that Hungary finally gained its independence.
All over the country there are reminders of the communist state. Even now there are state-controlled TV stations broadcasting what the government allows. This all seems a bit pointless when at a press of the button you can be watching normal programmes from the rest of Europe. Just don’t expect to hear English on the evening news.
Many Hungarians see the current government as clinging to the old ways and there is a genuine feeling of unrest in some quarters. Every night outside my hotel there was a meeting by a small group of locals to celebrate the 1956 uprising. Back then the Soviets had brutally crushed the rebellion, thousands were killed and the uprising cemented itself in Hungarian legend, a modern-day symbol of pride and freedom. This peaceful little group had been meeting every night for months. Flags were waved, songs sung, speeches given and then everyone went home.
All this history is evident everywhere you go. Fantastic old gothic castles and churches stand alongside drab concrete buildings and among modern shops and offices. The old castle dominates the city of Budapest. It is worth the effort to hike up to the castle district and take in the view of the river Danube with its famous bridges across to the stunningly beautiful parliament building. Be warned though, the climb up Helen’s Stairs makes Jacobs Ladder feel like a very short walk on a very flat beach.
Getting around is easy thanks to a great metro and tram system and the exchange rate makes sure you can enjoy some retail therapy and still have enough forints left over to enjoy the nightlife. Klub Vittula is one of the places to be, with stupidly cheap beer and great DJs (always a dangerous combination and a recipe for some serious dance floor disasters) and Gödör Klub is a huge, glass-ceilinged underground club with lots of local live music, but neither really gets going until late. There are cafés, bars and restaurants everywhere, catering for just about every taste so you won’t get bored waiting for the real nightlife to kick in. Hungarians love their food, so good luck if you are trying to watch the calories; servings tend to be large and rich, with loads of creamy sauces. For shopping head to the elegant Váci Street and the award-winning West End City Centre – recently adjudged the biggest and best shopping centre in Central Europe.
If you are heading to Europe then a trip to Hungary is definitely recommended. The people are fantastic, the history and culture fascinating.
Just the facts, ma’am
Location: Central Europe, north-west of Romania
Area: 93,030sq km
Bordering countries: Austria, Croatia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Ukraine
Climate: Temperate; cold, cloudy, humid winters; warm summers
Terrain: Mostly flat to rolling plains; hills and low mountains on the Slovakian border
Population: 10 million
Ethnic groups: Hungarian 92.3%, Roma 1.9%, other 5.8%
Religions: Roman Catholic 51.9%, Calvinist 15.9%, Lutheran 3%, Greek Catholic 2.6%
Languages: Hungarian (Magyar) 99%
Government type: Parliamentary democracy
Capital: Budapest, population 1.7 million
GDP – per capita: $US17,600
www.hungary.com
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